Story by Cara Devine. Cara is our Melbourne-based drinks writer. She is the manager of Bomba in Melbourne and the face and talent behind the cocktailing youtube channel Behind the Bar. You can email her at behindthebarchannel@gmail.com
Molly Rose
279/285 Wellington St, Collingwood
Mollyrosebrewing.com
There’s something special about experiencing food and drink in close proximity to where it is grown or made. It’s why that bottle bought abroad never quite tastes the same when drunk around your dining table at home, and explains the enduring success of winery lunches. Over the past few years, beer has entered this conversation. The brewpub has become a firm feature in the weekends of every self-respecting urbanite, their broad appeal cementing their popularity.
Molly Rose Brewing has been a darling of beer connoisseurs since its initial small batch releases in 2017. Owner Nic Sandery immersed himself in the beer world, both in Australia at well-respected breweries such as Little Creatures and Holgate and overseas, before beginning to brew his own. Their beers have always had a culinary twist – limited releases such as the current ‘Autumn Underdog’ Persimmon Farmhouse Ale or the ‘Some Plum’ Plum Farmhouse Ale celebrate seasonal produce and come in large formats, perfect to enjoy alongside a meal as you would a bottle of wine.
This idea of food and beer pairings underpins the concept for their recent expansion. While they have had a ‘brewery door’ on Wellington St since 2019, when the opportunity came up to take over the two adjoining spaces, Sandery saw an opportunity to fully realise his vision. “Dining in Melbourne has changed a lot from paired wines to just paired drinks and there’s a greater interest for really unique beers,” he says. “We have this opportunity to do this really fun project with innovative pairings where people can enjoy the food that’s been made in front of them with the beer that’s been made right next to them.”
This idea of food and beer pairings underpins the concept for their recent expansion. While they have had a ‘brewery door’ on Wellington St since 2019, when the opportunity came up to take over the two adjoining spaces, Sandery saw an opportunity to fully realise his vision.
To this end, he has brought Chef Ittichai Ngamtrairai (AKA Biggy) on board. With a background in fine dining, Biggy’s menu is elevated modern Australian with a South East Asian twist – don’t worry, there’s still a bowl of fries on the menu, but snacks like mushroom crisps with almond cream and oregano, or rolls of cucumber with whipped tofu are exciting and fresh while the cured trout with mandarin kosho (a fermented condiment) is the perfect pairing with the Helles Refreshing, a cocktail which lives up to its name by combining mezcal, apricot brandy and the brewery’s own mandarin radler.
The space has a ‘choose your own adventure’ vibe. The courtyard beer garden is as chilled as you would expect, and hosts a monthly Sunday market – a must-visit for any hot sauce fiend with plenty of fiery bottles to choose from! The dining room features a stunning showpiece bar and elegant table set up which feels more ‘restaurant-y’ than other venues of a similar ilk. Beside the open kitchen is a chef’s table, where it is planned that the Molly Rose pairing experience can be enjoyed in a complete and immersive way from Autumn.
Similarly, the offering allows flexibility. Larger options on the menu and a considered wine and large format beer list, along with friendly table service means you could celebrate an occasion here as easily as stopping in for a drink and a snack on a sunny afternoon. Molly Rose have really nailed the no-and-low offering as well – their non-alcoholic Citra Citra IPA is one of the best in the business, and the 2.9% Radlers on tap are perfect for when you’re not sure if you want a beer or a juice (dare I say it, perhaps the perfect hangover drink?).
“We were always going to be hospitality-focused,” Sandery says. “Our goal is to always provide great service and an experience that exceeds expectations. The best way for us to introduce people to Molly Rose is to have them sit in our venue for a few hours of eating and drinking and then leave with a smile on their face.” When the quality of food and booze is this good, it seems an eminently achievable goal.