Opening a bar is an arduous process; you become a plumber, a painter, an electrician and more adept at navigating the bureaucracy of local government than you ever wanted to be. However, once the bones are in place, the fun begins – using the company card to set your bar up for success. They say a bad workman blames their tools, but a good bartender understands how important they are. Choosing the right bar equipment can have a massive impact on the speed and efficiency with which you can put up your cocktails, and save many headaches further down the line.

It all starts with the jigger. Quite aside from the legality of free pouring, proper measurement allows for consistency in your drinks and helps control cost of goods. Simple one-shot jiggers are fine for spirit mixers, but cocktail-making requires larger measures. A double-ended (single and double shot) flared jigger, sometimes known as a Japanese jigger, with volume markings on the inside is a good investment as they make it easy to pour different quantities, but they can take a little practice (and a steady hand!) to use. A multi-level or ‘stepped’ jigger, a shot and a half, is easier to handle for novices as spillage is limited – although you can overpour! They are especially good for venues that batch cocktails, though, as they allow you to pour larger quantities in one go.

“Now I’m going to say something controversial: mixing glasses or tins are optional. A Martini or Manhattan stirred in one half of a shaker tin tastes perfectly good to me! If you’d like to use them, mixing tins are becoming more popular – again, they are lighter (although it could be argued therefore less stable) but importantly, don’t chip or smash as glass ones are wont to do in a busy bar.”

Once the measuring is done, we’re on to the mixing. Cobblers and Parisian shaker tins are undeniably beautiful, but they are finicky to use and harder to clean; I tend to keep them for at home bartending. For high-volume cocktail bars, it’s hard to go past a simple tin on tin boston shaker. While the glass ones are good in that you can see what is in it, they are heavier and breakable. Tin on tins are easy to clean, can be stacked to save space, and if you buy multiple of the same brand you can mix and match the tops and bottoms if one goes wandering…which we all know happens surprisingly easily in a bar!

Now, I’m going to say something controversial: mixing glasses or tins is optional. A Martini or Manhattan stirred in one half of a shaker tin tastes perfectly good to me! If you’d like to use them, mixing tins are becoming more popular – again, they are lighter (although it could be argued, therefore, less stable), but importantly, don’t chip or smash as glass ones are wont to do in a busy bar. Metal also chills drinks faster and slows dilution, so there’s a scientific basis for choosing metal too! A good bar spoon is also important. I prefer one with a smoother texture on the handle, as aggressive ridges can be hard on the hands, and check the volume of the spoon so you can use it for adding smaller quantities of ingredients to your drinks should you wish – most are 5ml.

For strainers, I’m a big fan of the no prong hawthorne strainer. They fit snugly into all manner of tins and glasses, removing the need for a separate julep strainer. However, the lack of prongs make them a little more tricky to handle one-handedly, so a sturdier, pronged hawthorne can be a good option when you’re still finding your way around a bar tin. A fine strainer is essential for straining out smaller chips of ice and any pulp etc from juices or homemade ingredients – texture is key! Just make sure they are rinsed after every use and soaked regularly to help with longevity; there’s nothing worse than a slow pouring strainer to slow you down on service.

Of course, garnishing is a large part of cocktail making so a good, sharp knife and vegetable peeler are necessary parts of your arsenal. I like the serrated Victorinox knives, and they come in a range of colours so each bartender can have their favourite. I have yet to find the holy grail vegetable peeler – suggestions are welcome – but ones with rubber handles are more ergonomically effective, and make sure they are cleaned between uses to keep them sharper for longer. Buy more than you think you need; you’ll never regret having a backup in the cupboard.

Of course, there are a hundred decisions to be made in terms of style and colour finishes, but I’ll leave those to you in matters of taste – classics are classics for a reason, but if a bejewelled bar spoon is calling your name, go for it. This is the fun part, after all!

Brooksy, 19 Jamison Street, Sydney
Brooksybar.com

Sydney’s CBD has welcomed a cool new addition to its nightlife with Brooksy, a hidden speakeasy that takes you back to the lively 1920s.

Tucked away from George Street’s hustle, Brooksy’s discreet entrance brings the charm of the Prohibition era for those craving a sophisticated and intriguing night out. With velvet curtains, marble counters, and chic Art Deco interiors accented by green, the bar’s signature absinthe cocktail served in a dazzling absinthe fountain sets the tone.

Brooksy also offers unique experiences like premium whiskeys served from a bar cart, tableside oyster shucking, and hidden giveaways for those who spot the clues. Entertainment includes live bands and fortune-telling, adding a touch of mystery and fun.

Created by award-winning beverage director Brendon Hill, Brooksy’s cocktail menu offers a global journey from the golden age of travel, making each drink an adventure. Don’t miss the Uluru, a refreshing mix of green grapes, lemon, Campari, gin, and white vermouth that transports you to the outback, or the Saluti, a blend of house-made citrus cello, peach granita, and prosecco that brings the Amalfi Coast to your glass.

Brendon Hill, Australia’s Cocktail Champion of 2014, has made waves in Sydney’s beverage scene at spots like The Grounds of Alexandria and Duck Duck Goose. Now at Brooksy, he’s crafted an impressive menu inspired by his travels, from Melbourne’s hidden laneways to Tuscany’s rolling hills.

The snacks at Brooksy, crafted by Executive Chef Hemant Dadlani, are just as impressive. With over two decades of experience in seven countries, Dadlani’s standout dishes include Glacier 51 Toothfish with shiro miso and cucumber salsa, and Salmon with pickled fennel, capers, and a delicate croquant. Plus, there’s a variety of shareable snacks.
Brooksy also offers unique experiences like premium whiskeys served from a bar cart, tableside oyster shucking, and hidden giveaways for those who spot the clues.

Entertainment includes live bands and fortune-telling, adding a touch of mystery and fun.
Located on Jamison Street, the cosy 70-seat venue designed by Like Minds (formerly Guru Projects) has a semi-hidden entrance and offers both bar and table seating for reservations and walk-ins.

Opening Hours:
Tuesday – Saturday
5pm till late

BARTENDERS

There is less than one week to get your AFTERLIFE entries in for your chance to win $10,000!

AFTERLIFE is a cocktail competition that celebrates the rituals of life and death. In its second year, we want you to explore AFTERLIFE – TO THE BONE.

We ask you to take a deceased classic cocktail – lost to time and give it a second life. Draw inspiration from the rituals of life and death, but the cocktail must emerge as a renewed & rejuvenated evolution of its former self.

TO ENTER:

1. Create a twist on a deceased classic cocktail with any product in the Espolon portfolio.
2. Submit your recipe with a photo of the drink with the Espolon product used via https://www.campariacademy.com/en-au/inspiration/afterlife-to-the-bone/
3. Share the image of the drink with the recipe on Instagram using the hashtag #Afterlifetothebone & Tag @espolontequilaau & @campariacademy_au & get ready for the phone call!

ENTRIES CLOSE MIDNIGHT SUNDAY 7^th JULY

*All entries will receive a limited-edition AFTERLIFE T-shirt with artwork by Ben Brown.

If you have any questions reach out to your local Brand Ambassador. @Mattdrinkslater @Stelhart @Jaylambert

Pearls Bar
Sheraton Mirage Gold Coast
pearlsbar.com.au

The Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Gold Coast, just unveiled its newly renovated Pearls Bar, marking a big moment for the resort under new ownership. This renovation gives both locals and guests a chance to enjoy some top-notch luxury.

Located in the heart of the resort, the updated Pearls Bar is decked out in rich jewel tones and lush accents, inspired by its tropical surroundings. The new menu, featuring locally sourced produce, highlights the vibrant flavours of the region.

Executive Chef Christopher Dodds redesigned the menu with the goal of offering a premium experience. “Every ingredient on the menu tells a story of Queensland’s culinary excellence and celebrates the rich flavours unique to the Gold Coast,” says Dodds. “We want to create connections through shared dining experiences, bringing something special to both locals and international travellers.”

The bar also boasts an extensive beverage selection with handcrafted cocktails, premium wines, and artisanal spirits. The new cocktail menu, created by expert mixologists, includes luxurious drinks like the ‘Pancho’s Pearls’ made with Patrón el Cielo Tequila, Crème de Pêche, Perrier Jouet Champagne, citrus, and peach pearls.

General Manager Keith Massey says the renovation modernizes Pearls Bar, offering a truly luxurious experience for guests. “Pearls Bar has been part of the resort since it opened in 1987. Originally known as ‘Breakers Bar,’ it was a popular piano and cigar lounge,” says Massey. “As times changed, so did Pearls Bar. The last renovation was in 2013 when it got its current name. This renovation marks the first step under new ownership, and we’re excited to redefine the Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort, Gold Coast.”

Story by Andy Ratcliff, email him at andrewjohn@me.com

I first met Josh when we worked together at The Baxter Inn in 2017. He was fresh from London and arrived like a powerhouse on to the bar scene. Josh works like a controlled tornado. It’s simply impossible to keep up with the way his brain processes information, but I’ve tried. He has a hilariously dark sense of humour and makes the most delectable drinks imaginable.

To give you an idea of his international reputation, I was once in a cab with Erik Lorincz (Kwant, The Savoy) and he asked me who I thought made the best drinks in the country. Without a moment’s pause, I blurted out,” Josh Reynolds makes the tastiest drinks I’ve ever had.” He looked at me and said, “Ali’s little brother? I don’t doubt that for a second.”
We talked with him today to hear his story, which has taken him from his hometown of Derby (which he affectionately calls Dar-bay-dos) all the way to Sydney.

For more on The Point (The Dolphin Hotel, Shell House & more) head to
the-point.com/venues

Tell us about your start in hospitality. Where did you grow up and how did you make it into the industry?
I grew up in England and started hospitality at the age of 18 down in Nottingham as a barback after Ali (my older brother, now head of advocacy and global ambassador for Stauning Danish Whisky) got me a trial shift at this weird bar called Eschucha. It was super seedy, but I was on the bar in 6 months or so, making some classics and on menu drinks, a good experience, if I’m honest. Some extremely talented bartenders at that time in that little city have gone and accomplished some incredible things.

After heading down to the big smoke that is London Town, where did you work and what did you learn coming away from that experience?
Ali called me one evening when I was working in Bristol to move to London and help him really kick start Pollen Street Social, a venue owned and run by Gordon Ramsey’s protégé Jason Atherton in Mayfair – I learnt that service was everything, cleanliness was paramount and hard work got you places. Hours were daunting but thick skin was attained in abundance in that place. Then it was onto Hawksmoor Spitalfields, joining Ali once more, where I’d say my career really set alight, learning every single day from London’s finest, an incredible restaurant and bar. The training was second to none, and you were held accountable for standards in every aspect every single day. I loved it. I spent five years there. Three of them as head bartender, taking that bar to Tales and winning best international restaurant bar was incredible.

“Try not to drown. Listen to your gut and have fun. Sometimes, things don’t go the way you think they should go in your head, you’ve just got to roll with the punches.”

Your brother Ali has been a big influence in your life. What’s it like working together? I’d imagine a melting pot of emotion and classic Reynolds chat.
He absolutely has, I love him to death. I worked with him pretty much from age 21 to 27, it’s a joy man, intense at times but that’s two brothers for you who hate to lose, at anything, ever.

You spent a lot of time working with Matt Whiley at Scout (London & Sydney). How did that shape the way you made drinks or just add another element to the arsenal?
He made me realise that there are so many ways to approach the construction of a drink, the man is a genius and I still ring him to ask him questions about all things weird and wonderful. The best thing about Matt is that he is more than happy to educate anyone at any time.

We had so many great times over the years in many bars. You’ve got a lot of energy and drive and a commitment to quality that should demand respect. What keeps driving you? What motivates you to “make it perfect” every time?
The drive is to make something I’ve never made taste incredible – that excites me. And the “make it perfect every time” mantra is simple. The answer for me is this. – “Would I pay for that?” That’s it!

Tell us about your experience winning Chivas Global and Wild Turkey. How did the travel and accolades change you and the way you approach hospitality?
Never again will I experience those trips, once-in-a-lifetime sort of stuff. Making drinks on the Great Wall of China, travelling Asia for three years, making whisky with Colin Scott, talking to Jimmy Russell, bourbon dinners at castles in Scotland, and meeting legends of the industry left, right and centre, to name a few. Something I’ll cherish until my day is done. It didn’t really change my approach; it just opened my eyes to drink-making around the world. Priceless!

Tell us about your role with the Point Group. It’s a massive undertaking being a group beverage manager. What are some tips for bartenders looking to make the jump into a role like yours?
It’s a plethora of things, really; I’m based at the Dolphin because that’s my baby, and it’s also where my workspace is for all drink creation. It is not easy constantly coming up with drinks on your own, but it’s a lot of fun for sure. Training across the group, instilling passion wherever possible. I’m a stickler for standards and getting the basics perfect.It’s all well and good making clarified mandarin juice but if you can’t make a well-constructed gin and tonic, you’re probably missing something.

Some tips for bartenders: The weeks are lightning quick in bars and restaurants so prepare to move and keep up with the times. Try not to drown. Listen to your gut and have fun. Sometimes, things don’t go the way you think they should go in your head, you’ve just got to roll with the punches.

Tell us about the new menu for Shell House. What makes a great winter style cocktail and how have you achieved this in the new menu?
It’s 12 drinks each allocated to where we see it working within the four venues of Shell House. I love seasonality, always have, always will. It’s the height of flavour. I also like tongue-in-cheek mixed in with, say, the seriousness of the preparation all the way up to the serve. There’s flavours that appear throughout the drinks I’ve created like, The Roasted Chestnut Negroni, Buddha’s Hand Alpine Negroni, Truffle and Cacao Boulevardier, Rhubarb and Vanilla Clarified Custard Punch, A Hazelnut and Pine Mushroom number with Whisky, the Feijoa Libation with quince, guava and salted plum and a Kumquat Jack Rose, I also created a chocolate brownie Ron Zacapa drink with toasted cardamom, hay caramel and walnut wine, a winter spritz with fresh yuzu and riesling vermouth. It’s been the most intense prep but also the most fun I’ve had creating a menu for a long time. A great winter drink is something that lends itself to the word Winter – which can mean many, many things. Use your imagination.”

Last question! What’s your favourite bar on earth, and if you could only have one last drink, what would it be, and who would it be with?
My favourite bar on earth doesn’t exist and it never will. However, my last drink would be a pint of the greatest Guinness with a pack of salt and vinegar crisps with my brother, in our 70’s. He’s my best drinking partner hands down. The end!

Gitano
Shop 2/53 Cross St, Double Bay
Gitanossydney.com.au

Double Bay is continuing its rise as a top dining spot with the opening of Gitano, a fancy Mexican restaurant and bar on popular Cross Street. Head Chef Alvaro ‘Clark’ Valenzuela’s menu will feature exciting flavours from different parts of Mexico, focusing on places like Mexico City, Oaxaca, Puebla, the Yucatán Peninsula, and coastal regions, all presented in a tapas style.

Valenzuela, originally from Mexico City, is known for bringing traditional and modern Mexican food to Sydney, having previously worked at Chula in Potts Point, Zepeda, Alegre Bar and Dining, Bodega1904, and Mañana.

At Gitano, Valenzuela aims to take diners on a journey through Mexico’s flavours and stories. “Gitano will offer a variety of dishes from different regions of Mexico in a casual and rustic setting to create a warm and inviting dining experience,” he says. “This lets diners explore the diverse flavours and traditions of Mexico while enjoying a relaxed atmosphere. It also adds a touch of authenticity to the experience, reflecting Mexico’s rich culinary heritage.”

Valenzuela credits his grandmother, his ‘abuelita,’ for his palate. “She taught me that everything should be done with love, including cooking,” he says. “There’s a lot of love in everything I create, from simple tacos to more complex dishes. I hope Gitano guests will taste my passion for Mexican food.”

Gitano is the latest venture from Eastern Suburbs hospitality experts Eric Jury, Julian Tobias, and Poata Okeroa, who are also partners in the Sydney nightspot Sussudio in Potts Point. “We wanted to bring a unique dining experience to the eastern suburbs, combining a festive atmosphere with an elevated Mexican menu,” says Okeroa.

Gitano will also feature a lounge bar with Latin/Afro house music and bottle service, perfect for those wanting to continue their night like in Tulum or Mykonos.

Gitano’s decor, inspired by the neutral tones and rough textures of Tulum’s beachfront bars, was designed by Jury, who also handled the renovation from its previous incarnation as the Middle Eastern-themed Bedouin. “Double Bay has seen a resurgence in quality dining with the openings of places like Tanuki and Bartiga. Neil Perry’s new Asian concept on Bay Street will also add to the local restaurant scene,” says Okeroa.

Gitano will also feature a lounge bar with Latin/Afro house music and bottle service, perfect for those wanting to continue their night like in Tulum or Mykonos. General Manager Francisco Rosales, with experience from top restaurants in Australia, Mexico, and the US, says the bar will offer curated wines and unique cocktails, including a Patron bar as a highlight.

Gitano will operate as a restaurant and late-night venue with a 3am license and capacity for 160 people in the front restaurant and bar area, and 200 patrons in the lounge bar.

Trading hours are Tuesday-Thursday 5pm till late, Friday 5pm till 3am, Saturday midday till 3am, and Sunday midday till late.

By Wee James, Hendrick’s Gin Brand Ambassador. @weejammacrae

Of all the places Australian Bartender of the Year, James Irvine, imagined he’d be making cocktails, Hendrick’s Master Distiller Lesley Gracie’s laboratory probably wasn’t one of them. However, winning Australian Bartender of the Year does open those Distillery doors.

Closed to the public, The Hendrick’s Gin Palace on Scotland’s Southwest Coast is a wonder of unusual delights that few get to explore – even fewer having Lesley as your personal guide, as you travel from greenhouses growing unusual and rare botanicals to the Still House where every single drop of Hendrick’s Gin is distilled.

Fresh upon initially arriving in Glasgow, James was whisked down to the South Ayrshire coast where the Hendrick’s Gin Palace is located to showcase his winning Hendrick’s cocktail “Crusts Off” (Cucumber Sandwich Hendrick’s Gin, Cucumber, Dill, Crème Fraiche, Waxflower, Fizz) to Lesley, as she was very keen to try it having had me raving about it for months.

After a solid first attempt at riding Hendrick’s penny-farthings around the grounds (definitely not as easy as it looks), it was off up to Lesley’s lab to discuss secret delicious projects that Lesley is working on…

All be it that Hendrick’s Boomerangs from around the World isn’t a new thing for Lesley, actually having the cocktail creator turn up in person, armed with vac-sealed deliciousness at the Distillery’s front door for a morning tipple is a bit more of a rarity.

After a solid first attempt at riding Hendrick’s penny-farthings around the grounds (definitely not as easy as it looks), it was off up to Lesley’s lab to discuss secret delicious projects that Lesley is working on, the do’s and don’t’s of cocktail comps (more on this to be revealed later), and for James to re-tell his story behind his award-winning serves for Hendrick’s Gin. This went down a treat and a second was whipped up, only to mysteriously disappear, being polished off by Lesley before a decent photo of the drink could be taken.

Now, of course, this wasn’t the only time the Crusts Off was to be sampled in Scotland. A few nights later, James was to be found behind the stick at Panda & Sons in Edinburgh where both Crusts Off and James’ award-winning Monkey Shoulder drink “(It goes like) Nanana!” (Monkey Shoulder, Whole banana, Koji) were flying across the bar until the wee small hours!

More on this incredible adventure to Scotland – part of James’ prize for winning Australian Bartender of the Year at the Abercrombie Hotel last September – to come in future editions, when we’ll hear about how things went when presenting to Malt Master Brian Kinsman.

This article is our cover story for the June edition of Australian Bartender Magazine which is hitting bars now!

Cara is our Melbourne-based drinks writer. She is the co-owner of Goodwater in Melbourne and the face and talent behind the cocktailing YouTube channel Behind the Bar. You can email her at behindthebarchannel@gmail.com

A few years ago, I decided to make a video about the Sazerac. How hard could it be? It’s a pretty well-known drink that retained reasonable popularity even through the cocktail dark ages. I expected that its story would be quite well documented, with perhaps a squabble over which exact bar in New Orleans had first mixed one, but instead, I opened a can of worms.

The story which I had always heard was one made famous by Stanley Clisby Arthur, author of 1937 book ‘Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ‘Em’. He said that Antoine Peychaud, a New Orleans pharmacist, liked to serve and drink his eponymous bitters mixed with cognac in little cups (called coquetiers). Meanwhile, another New Orleans based businessman was importing brandy, specifically Sazerac-du-Forge et Fils cognac. That same man was also involved with the Merchant Coffee House, which, despite the name, was a bar. There, at some point around the 1850s, they started mixing the cognac with Peychaud’s bitters, and this would have been known as a ‘Sazerac cocktail’. In the 1870s, absinthe was the cool new cocktail ingredient on the block and that got added to the mix (by whom exactly is also up for the debate). The story then goes that phylloxera, a root disease which crippled France’s wine and brandy industry, made cognac hard to come by and so the indigenous rye whiskey was substituted, eventually becoming the norm. When absinthe was banned in the US, bartenders also turned to Herbsaint as a replacement for the herbal element.

“[David Wondrich] also pointed out that the whole Peychauds – coffee house – cognac – Sazerac cocktail link is pure conjecture. The first written reference to a Sazerac Cocktail is in 1899, and it was definitely a rye cocktail.”

Peychaud’s ‘coquetiers’ have been promoted by New Orleans as the root of the word cocktail, conveniently crowning them the birthplace of the cocktail. However, David Wondrich is widely acknowledged as the foremost cocktail historian in the world, and as such he has a rather annoying habit of actually checking dates and looking at facts. He pointed out that since the first written instance of the word cocktail was in 1806 and Peychaud was born in 1803, he probably can’t claim it. He also pointed out that the whole Peychauds – coffee house – cognac – Sazerac cocktail link is pure conjecture. The first written reference to a Sazerac Cocktail is in 1899, and it was definitely a rye cocktail.

By this point I was a bit confused, because at some point in my career, I was taught that if someone asked for a Sazerac I should ask if they wanted a New Orleans (which would be full rye), or a New York Sazerac (which splits the base between rye and cognac), and so far there has been no mention of that last version. So here I am, ready to start writing a script about the rivalry between NY and NOLA styles, and I gaily type ‘New York Sazerac’ into the search engine – nothing. The only article about it I can find is in this very magazine, in an article from 2015. So, I put it to the Melbourne Bartender Exchange hive mind. The response from bartenders was overwhelming that while they would always ask the guest’s preference, their own favourite was a New York style. But then a few Americans started chiming in, saying they had never heard of a New York Sazerac; the plot thickens.

With a bit more digging and discussion, we figure out that Dale de Groff, the bartender and author at the forefront of the craft cocktail revolution included a split base Sazerac as a nod to the cognac origins tale in his 2002 book ‘Craft of the Cocktail’, which was my bible (and that of many of my peers) when starting out in the industry. The Sazerac never went away in the States, as much as it may have fallen out of fashion a bit, but for many international bartenders, this may have been the first time they’d ever even heard of the drink and not realised this recipe was unusual. De Groff is not the only person to have experimented with this, but he is very influential and has strong ties with overseas hospitality. He was from New York, and so the differentiation between his version and the New Orleans one slipped into bartender parlance in the UK and Australia… or at least this is my supposition!

Either way, the split base Sazerac is an excellent drink. The fruity notes of the brandy round out the spicy rye wonderfully and tie in the absinthe and bitters to perfection. When opening an American whiskey-focused venue with friends this year, there was no doubt that we had to have a Sazerac on the menu. We wanted to keep it all American but with a nod to the Australian norm of splitting the base. So, we turned to applejack. It is, without a doubt, the best Sazerac I have ever had.

Goodwater Sazerac

Recipe by John Hallett

50ml rye whiskey (we use Michter’s Straight Rye)
10ml Laird’s applejack
Half bar spoon granulated sugar
4 dashes Herbsaint (or absinthe)
2 dashes Peychauds bitters
Glass: small rocks
Garnish: lemon twist

Story by Cara Devine. Cara is our Melbourne-based drinks writer. She is the co-owner of Goodwater in Melbourne and the face and talent behind the cocktailing YouTube channel Behind the Bar. You can email her at behindthebarchannel@gmail.com

Spontaneity is the spice of life, as they say, and the team at Bar Spontana have put both at the forefront of their newly opened venue in Brunswick, pairing a bar offering focussed on spontaneous/wild fermentation with spicy, regional Thai food – literally, take my money.

“It all just kind of came from passion really,” says co-owner Josh Hodges. He and business partner Caleb Baker are the brains behind Footscray venue Mr West, “a passion project about good booze in all of its glorious forms. The more that we scratched the surface about why we liked what we liked about that good booze, the more we found there was a common thread across a lot of categories of drink, be it beer or spirits or wine – that it was ones where they weren’t ‘pitching’ yeast but where spontaneous fermentation happens. You just get a much truer reflection of a sense of time and place; beyond the romance of a story, you’re really capturing the essence of somewhere.” And so the concept of Bar Spontana started to bubble.

Both Baker and Hodges have impressive hospitality resumes, and they’ve drawn from that to curate a list of minimal intervention wines, sakes, and (mostly) wild fermented beers (as Hodges points out, there’s no such thing as a spontaneous lager, so their entire bottle list is wild fermented and 4 out of the 8 taps, leaving some room for more classic styles). Spirits, though, have been trickier. “Obviously with how difficult it is to ferment grain products, they generally need a little bit of help with the more complex sugars, as opposed to rum which is straight sugar or fruit products which have yeast existing on the skin so they just do it themselves.”

They currently have an impressive selection of spontaneously fermented rums, agave spirits, and brandies. While whiskies and so on have proved more difficult (although they do have some), their aim is to have a 100% spontaneous spirits offering by the end of the year.

Their cocktail list is headed up by Black Pearl alum and former Bartender of the Year Nathan Beasley, and is equally interesting. He continues the theme with house-made pickles and ferments using both ancient techniques and modern ones such as a Rotovap.

The Haribo Pickle uses a housemade rhubarb pickle and Calvados to perfectly mimic the sweet-sour more-ishness of our favourite sweets, while the Spro Tini combines lacto-fermented nectarine and Kenyan single origin coffee (which also undergoes a fermentation process) in a milk punch for a textural and juicy take which perfectly captures the beloved Espresso Martini while elevating it exponentially.

A list entitled ‘a snapshot of spontaneous fermented spirits and how we enjoy them’ featuring, for instance, Melbourne Sake Co sake and tonic and Mal Bien Espadin mezcal with passionfruit soda is a deliciously easy way to get into the spirit of the venue.

“The way we’ve designed it is that people can come in and enjoy it without being suffocated with the concept – they can just enjoy [the venue] without being overwhelmed with this kooky idea, but if they ask the questions the staff love talking about it because it’s what we’re passionate about…it’s kind of just integrated into every part of what we do, but you wouldn’t be able to tell – you’re not going to drink a wine or cocktail and say that’s obviously wild fermented.” – Co-owner Josh Hodges

Meanwhile in the kitchen, Chef Noom is cooking Thai food of a style and quality not often seen in Australia. A disclaimer on the menu reads, ‘There are many places you can find delicious green curry in Melbourne – this is not one of them. Our food is inspired by regional Thai food, ferments, preserves and family recipes. Most dishes contain chilli…some contain a lot of chilli’, a fact I can attest to after trying skewered betel leaves filled with oyster mushroom and a mind-altering burnt green chilli sauce! A cooling, skinsy viognier was just the thing to pair alongside though, and helped this Scot deal with the heat.

Other delicacies, such as house-fermented Esan pork sausage, seem tailor-made for the venue concept, but Hodges explains that getting Noom in the kitchen was a happy accident. “We never wanted to tie the kitchen down to any preconceived ideas that we had…we didn’t want to get into a predicament where we were pigeonholed into a genre of food because we’re not chefs.”

Hodges had worked with Noom at Cookie, who had then retired from hospitality, but over a game of pool, he expressed that he would come out of retirement for an opportunity to work with the Spontana team – spontaneous, indeed. ‘We’d never really considered Thai food with this concept, but the more that we looked into it, we realised it’s one of the most perfect pairings we could have done.’ Agreed!

As with all good bars with a strong mission statement, the concept at Bar Spontana guides their choices and, therefore, your experience, but in a subtle way. The service is warm and friendly, and they are happy to discuss nerdier aspects of the drinks with you should you please, but as Hodges explains, “the way we’ve designed it is that people can come in and enjoy it without being suffocated with the concept – they can just enjoy [the venue] without being overwhelmed with this kooky idea, but if they ask the questions the staff love talking about it because it’s what we’re passionate about…it’s kind of just integrated into every part of what we do, but you wouldn’t be able to tell – you’re not going to drink a wine or cocktail and say that’s obviously wild fermented.”

“We’re not about funky, we’re not about faults… we’re about showcasing excellent products that are made more excellent by the fact that they really represent and stand for something with how they’ve been produced in an artisanal way with love and care. There’s so much beauty and so much romance to it, and at the end of the day these products inevitably end up having more complexity and a deeper flavour profile because they’re not made with a cookie cutter, lab-produced yeast. They’re made from an environment, from an occasion, from a time and that’s hard to match. We’re not doing it because it’s a trend; we’re doing it because we wholeheartedly believe that it’s the most delicious way to make a drink with the most integrity and a way to honour a time and place.” As I said to him at the time, that, Josh, is perfectly said and will be my kicker.

The Gospel Whiskey is celebrating the news its Straight Rye Whiskey has won a Gold medal at the prestigious 2024 International Wine & Spirits Competition (IWSC) and, for the second consecutive year, is Australia’s highest-scoring whiskey across all categories and the 2nd-highest-scoring rye whiskey in the world.

In the global rye whiskey category, The Gospel’s Straight Rye Whiskey ($95) tied equal second with the Thomas H. Handy Straight Rye Whiskey (96 points) – a rare whiskey that retails in Australia for upwards of $1,200. The only rye whiskey to outscore The Gospel Straight Rye was the Sazerac 18-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Rye at 98 points, which is found on some Australian liquor store shelves for upwards of $2,400.

“The Gospel Whiskey has one mission –  to take the distinct taste of Mallee grown rye to the world and continued success like this on the world stage really helps to endorse that mission,” The Gospel’s Co-Founder Andrew Fitzgerald said. “We’ve spent years defining The Gospel’s unique style of whiskey to craft something distinctly Australian and expressive to the site we source the grain from. We’re not aiming to taste like other whiskeys or fit in with the crowd – it’s unique to us, and I think the judges at the IWSC appreciated its difference.”

“The Gospel Whiskey has one mission –  to take the distinct taste of Mallee grown rye to the world and continued success like this on the world stage really helps to endorse that mission,” – The Gospel’s Co-Founder Andrew Fitzgerald

The judges said of The Gospel’s Straight Rye Whiskey: “Perfumed and wonderfully peppery on the nose, full of pleasing, punchy rye spice aromas with deep liquorice tumbling through. Dry and remarkably layered, with well-defined flavours of cognac, green tea, and menthol adding complexity on the palate. The finish is long, sweet, and satisfying with a refreshing hint of mint complementing indulgent chocolatey tones. Divine!”

The IWSC is one of the world’s biggest and longest-running spirits competitions. Producers of the world’s wines and spirits have entered the competition for over 50 years, with more than 250 specialist judges from all over the world coming together to score and review more than 4100 entries from 98 countries. The Gospel’s achievements at the IWSC follow an incredible year for the distillery and its team, with Ian Thorn, The Gospel’s Master Distiller, winning Master Distiller/Master Blender of the Year at the 2024 Icons of Whisky Awards (part of the World Whiskies Awards).

“Ian (pictured here) is an often quiet achiever.  He is an integral part of the foundation that created the modern-day Australian whiskey movement. He is also the most qualified distiller in the country and is always helping the next generation.  To have him leading our team is such an honour,” Fitzgerald said.

For more information on The Gospel Whiskey, visit their website at www.thegospelwhiskey.com or follow them on Instagram @thegospelwhiskey