Words by Amy Spanton. Photography David Spanton
If you ask people about Turin (or Torino as the Italians call it) it is still pretty much known as the home to Fiat cars and considered an ‘industrial city’. But don’t listen. Torino is beautiful. It’s like a mini-Paris. It’s clean, there is so much stunning architecture and at every turn there is a piece of history to marvel at.
We loved Torino. The home of vermouth is a spectacular city. And it is genuinely a city that is dedicated to the tradition of aperitivo. From 4pm, bars and caffes are full of people sharing a quick drink with friends before they head home for dinner. Aperitivo snacks are also mostly free here (expect anything from olives to a full platter), which is something that has started to fade away in other places in Italy.
So why vermouth? Well, the conditions were ripe in the Savoy capital. There was a ready supply of Moscato grapes, local herbs and spices from the port of Genova. The pharmacists found that these infusions of herbs etcetera in wine could be pretty delicious and the royal drinks switched from rosalio to vermouth.
Thanks to our friends at Cinzano, we were given a personally guided tour around Turin by the city’s foremost tour guide, sommelier and wine educator, Martina Doglio Cotto. Follow her @grapestories and reach out if you’re in Turin. She not only pointed out the historical vermouth landmarks but was also able to impart her vast knowledge about this very historical city which was Italy’s first capital after unification in the 1860s and also home to the famous House of Savoy.
It was a baroque city in the 1700s and 1800s. In the 1700s the cafeteria culture really started to grow. Martina explained that the different caffes tended to be frequented by people of different political groups. It was this caffe culture that helped to propel vermouth into a widely consumed beverage. But how did it all begin?
Martina’s take on it (and she has done her research) is that there were many pharmacists who were adding different varieties of spices and herbs to wine – mostly for digestive reasons. The godfathers were the Cora Family, Carpano and Cinzano. During the mid-1700s you had to have a license from the royal family to make alcohol and the royal drink was rosalio.
So why vermouth? Well, the conditions were ripe in the Savoy capital. There was a ready supply of Moscato grapes, local herbs and spices from the port of Genova. The pharmacists found that these infusions of herbs etcetera in wine could be pretty delicious and the royal drinks switched from rosalio to vermouth. Cinzano and Carpano both claim to have created the first vermouth. According to Martina, it’s likely that these pharmacists were all producing these products around the same time.
Once the royal family switched their favour to vermouth, the preparation of this wine became a form of art and a hot competition. Vermouth was considered a delicious elixir as well as a remedy for all ailments. In the mid-1800s, with industrialisation, production volumes increased and the popularity of the Torino ‘aperitivo’ trend spread beyond the city.
Torino was an essential stop on our aperitivo pilgrimage and it did not disappoint. So here are some of our hot tips for our beloved Torino:
Caffé Mulassano
Piazza Castello, 15 – Turin
Caffemulassano.com
This stunning caffe has been operating at this site since 1907 and is dedicated to maintaining this small piece of Italian history. It really is like stepping back in time and is an homage to the aperitivo tradition of Torino. A plaque in the caffe reads: “In 1926, Mrs. Angela Demichelis Nebiolo, invented the tramezzino”. The Tramezzino is a small sandwich that was invented in this tiny 31 square metre caffe, and is a tradition that persists across Italy today. These delicious little white bread sandwiches are filled with salami, fromage, tuna, and smoked salmon.
Vermuttino
Via Bonelli 16c, Turin
@vermuttino_torino
We were lucky that the team at Vermuttino (a gorgeous and historic cocktail bar) opened the doors for us on our tour of Turin with Martina Doglio Cotto. We were treated to a full tasting of the Cinzano vermouth range with traditional aperitivo dishes. This is where we leant what to expect from traditional aperitivo – Russian Salad, grissini (Italian breadsticks which trace their heritage back to an Italian king who was told to eat ‘only crust’ to resolve his digestive issues) and tramezzino.
Ristorante Consorzio
Via Monte di Pietà, 23, 10122 Torino
ristoranteconsorzio.it
For a modern take on Italian dining, this restaurant was one that came highly recommended and only as we arrived did we see that it had been consistently receiving Michelin stars since opening. Highlight of the meal included the five offal dish, which included brains, kidneys and cow’s vagina. Definitely a first for us.
Martini Caffé Torino
Piazza San Carlo, 204 Turin
www.caffetorino-torino.it/bar-e-caffe
This is the famous aperitivo bar with the big Martini sign outside which opened back in 1903. Home to the whole range of Martini products and packed with tourists and locals alike who want a piece of the Piedmont caffe tradition. Popular in the 50s with the likes of James Stewart, Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot who would stop by during filming.
Caffe Platti Torino
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72, 10121 Torino
@caffeplatti
Tucked away on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II in Turin is one of the oldest and most fascinating cafes in Italy – Platti. The caffé’s history dates back to 1870 when the “Principe Umberto” spirits shop opened in the first capital of Italy, later taken over by Ernesto and Pietro Platti and renamed Caffè Platti in 1875. Wonderful service.